Caught inside: a surfer's year on the california coast - Daniel Duane

Enhanced by good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the intricate art of surfboard design, and sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna of the Pacific wilderness, this narrative of Daniel Duane's life on the water is remarkable.

From the portraits of famous and infamous surfers to an analysis of Gidget's perverse significance, Duane uncovers the myths and symbols bound up in this vibrant American subject.