Gestalten The monocle travel guide to helsinki: the monocle travel guide series, hardcover/monocle

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Meet the artists shaking up the cultural scene and leaf through this literary hub's many libraries - did someone mention the Moomins? Helsinki is a tale of two cities.

Arrive mid-winter and you'll find a frosty wonderland of deserted, snow-caked streets, the residents holed up in cosy, impeccably designed caf s.

Come in summer, when the sun refuses to set, and you'll catch locals partying merrily into the early hours and leaping gleefully into the Baltic Sea.

The Finnish capital is used to be.